Archive for August, 2006
It’s that time of year! For the next 2 months we are going to enjoy some of the best local tomatoes. My favorite are the red tomatoes from Dirty Girl Farms (they’re at the Saturday Farmer’s Market at the Ferry Building). They have firm, thick skin and are succulent and sweet on the inside. As good as Italy! Here’s a simple dish I like to prepare for my dinner guests.
Ingredients:
-best quality heirloom, roma and cherry tomatoes (available between June and late October)
-Freshest possible Buratta or Mozarella di bufala cheese (I use Gioia Buratta available at the Cow Girl Creamery in the Ferry Building)
-10 leaves of fresh basil chopped coarsely (chiffonade)
-best quality extra virgin olive oil (early harvest olio nuovo)
-best quality balsamic vinegar
-coarse sea salt such as fleur de sel
-freshly ground black pepper
Slice and arrange the tomatoes (I usually leave the cherry tomatoes whole) on a large platter. Sprinkle with fleur de sel and a little ground pepper (I tend to use more salt than pepper for these). Using a spoon or fork place pieces of the buratta in a line across the center of the platter. Be sure the buratta is at room temperature (take out of the refrigerator an hour before serving). Sprinkle the basil all over the platter but not on the cheese. Drizzle a fair amount of the olive oil over the platter and follow with a very small drizzling of the balsamic vinegar. Serve immediately.
Buon appetito! -James
August 31st, 2006
This is a classic dish and the rolled and steamed Petrale is extremely delicate in texture. The scallops which are ever so slightly browned are a beautiful companion to the sole.
Ingredients:
-Wild Petrale or Dover Sole (1/4 - 1/2 pound per serving)
-Dayboat or other fresh scallops (3 per serving)
-1/2 bottle good quality Prosecco (you can substitute for dry white wine)
-1 stick of unsalted butter, chilled and cut into cubes
-Salt, pepper
-Parsley for garnish
Preparation
Bring a pan of water to boil underneath a steamer basket. Lightly salt the Petrale Sole on both sides and carefully roll into a circle. Place into the basket and steam until cooked through yet still moist. Meanwhile take a sautee pan over medium heat and add 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Sautee your scallops for 20-30 seconds per side. Scallops cook quickly and can easily be dried out. As soon as you see the “stryations” form in the skin it’s time to turn them. Once both sides are cooked, add 1/4 cup of Prosecco or dry white wine to the pan. This will slow down the cooking process by lowering the temperature. Add salt and freshly ground black pepper and cook for 3-4 minutes over low heat. Turn once and salt/pepper again.
Procecco sauce
Place a medium sauce pan on a high flame. Add the 1/2 bottle of Prosecco or dry white wine and reduce until 1/2 cup remains. Lower the heat to medium high. Begin adding the cold butter 2-3 cubes at a time and stir in vigorously using a whisk. Continue this process until you have incorporated all of the butter and the sauce is reduced to an adequate thickness. It should gently coat the back of a wooden spoon.
Place the rolled Petrale Sole on a warmed dinner plate along with 2-3 scallops. Spoon the Procecco sauce over and around the fish. Garnish with fresh parsley and serve immediately. Buon appetito! -James
August 31st, 2006
It’s the best time of year (August - October) for sweet cherry tomatoes. This is a classic Southern Italian dish and is served with fresh tomatoes, barely cooked so that their pure and wonderful flavor comes through.
Ingredients:
-2 pounds of ripe cherry tomatoes
-10 basil leaves, coarsely chopped
-1 clove of garlic, coarsely chopped
-3 tablespoons extra virgen olive
-olio nuovo or best quality extra virgen olive oil for drizzling
-salt
-pepper
-1 pound dried spaghetti pasta (servers 6-8 as a light course)
Preparation
Wash and dry your tomatoes. I like to leave 70% of them whole so that when cooked they begin to burst at the seams. Take the other 30% and cut them in half. Take a large sautee pan and sautee the garlic over medium heat until translucent, not browned. Add the tomatoes and stir over medium heat for 8-12 minutes until they have released their juices and are nearly ready to explode. Drizzle with best quality extra virgen olive oil off the heat and set aside.
Cook your pasta in salted, boiling water until al dente. Remove 2 minutes before completely cooked. Drain pasta and add to your sautee pan with tomatoes. Toss for 1-2 minutes over medium high heat. Add the basil and toss off the heat. Plate and drizzle with best quality extra virgen olive oil. Magnificent!
August 31st, 2006
I met a friend the other night at EOS Wine Bar for a glass of wine. EOS is currently doing happy hour ($5 dollar glasses of house wine, $1 oysters, etc.) Sunday through Wednesday from 5:30pm to 7:30pm.
I’ve always enjoyed EOS (especially the wine bar) as a neighborhood spot to have a drink or a bite to eat. Back in the late nineties it really was quite the hot spot. Now, however, one can feel the neglect. It’s still good but it needs some serious attention. The menu has not changed in ages and the interior could stand a refresh. I do still go there but not as frequently…and I rarely eat there.
However, there I am on a Monday and suddenly it hits me. I’m surrounded by lesbians on dates with their significant others. Now I certainly do not have any issues with lesbians or gays (some of my dearest friends are gay) but it kind of took me by surprise. Maybe it was coincidence but the place was packed. Gay/Lesbian Monday’s at EOS? Kind of cool for Cole Valley…
August 28th, 2006
I introduced this dish at a recent dinner party and it was a big success. The idea is that everyone receives a plate with a little parchment paper packet. When they cut it open all of the flavors escape and they find the surprise inside. Here’s how to put it together. This will serve 4-6 people:
CONFIT
Take 3 different types of your favorite olives (such as picholine, nicoise and Greek - you’ll need about a cup), the rind of 2 lemons (just the yellow part, cut into thin strips), one garlic clove (chopped coarsely) and 3 sprigs of fresh thyme. In a medium size pot heat 1/2 cup of olive oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and sautee for 1 minute (do not brown). Add all of the other items and cook–stirring frequently–for 2 minutes. Set aside.
FISH
On the same day you intend to serve the dish go to your fishmonger and buy the freshest fish possible. I like to use Wild Halibut but take whatever is most fresh. I’d stick to a white fleshy fish such as halibut or sea bass. However, even black cod or mahi mahi would work well. For 4-6 people I’d get about a pound to a pound and a half of fish. This is after all intended to be a small package.
PARCHMENT PAPER
Go to a good market of cooking store and buy a roll of brown, unbleached parchment paper. If you cannot find any then you can use aluminum foil but the presenation is not as interesting.
ASSEMBLING AND COOKING THE DISH
Pre-heat your oven to 450 degrees. Cut a large square piece of parchment paper for each serving (you’ll want to have enough room to plate the fish and wrap the package up). Cut your fish into individual serving pieces and season lightly with salt. Place a piece of fish in the center of each parchment package. Using a spoon place a good dollup of confit on top of each fish. Be sure and add a bit of oil too as this will help keep the fish moist. Add a little more extra virgen olive oil on top. The fish should be coated in oil but not soaking in it.
Carefully fold each package together on all sides and bring together at the top and seal by folding the paper. Place each packet into a roasting or baking dish and insert into the oven for approximately 10-15 minutes. Check for doneness after 10 minutes. Carefully open one package and insert a knife into the fish. If it goes through easily the dish is ready. To plate place a parchment package on each dish and cut it open using a sharp knife. Garnish with a fresh sprig of thyme.
Buon appetito!
August 23rd, 2006
Pasta alla carbonara: the word carbonara comes from “carbone” which in Italian means coal. Many believe that carbonara dates back to Roman times while others believe it was the preferred dish of coal miners. There is even speculation that after WWII the Americans stationed in Rome approached the locals with ham and eggs and asked them to make a dish. The result? Carbonara pasta.
A good carbonara is a bit of an art form especially when one considers just how many recipe variations exist. While I am not going to tell you that this carbonara is the one and only authentic version, I will say that I like it a lot and I think you will as well. It’s simple and uses the traditional ingredients of spaghetti or linguine, pancetta, eggs, cream, pepper and parmiggiano reggiano.
Ingredients:
-1 garlic clove (whole & peeled)
-2 tablespoons extra virgen olive oil
-1 pound spaghetti or linguine (a quality brand such as Rustichella or DiCecco)
-2 tablespoons salt
-1/4 pound pancetta or bacon cut into small cubes
-1/2 cup grated parmiggiano reggiano
-1/2 cup heavy cream (room temperature)
-2 fresh eggs (room temperature)
Put a pot of water on the stove over a high flame. Meanwhile, take a large sautee pan (12″ - 14″) and do the following:
-Heat the 2 tablespoons of olive oil over a medium flame
-Add the whole garlic clove and sautee 1-2 minutes in the oil until slightly brown. Remove clove and discard.
-Add the pancetta and sautee, stirring occasionally for 2-4 minutes. When cooked through and tender (but not crispy) remove from heat.
-When the water comes to a boil, add the 2 tablespoons of salt to the water and then add the pasta. Stir occasionally and cook until al dente according to the package’s instructions. Be sure and check for doneness a minute or two early and remove before completely cooked (the pasta will continue cooking for several more minutes).
-In a non-reactive bowl, whisk the eggs and cream together. Add the parmiggiano and whisk in as well.
-Right before the pasta is ready, take 2 tablespoons of the cooking water and add to the pan with the pancetta and heat over a medium flame.
-Drain the pasta and add to the sautee pan. Using tongs toss and mix and pasta into the oil and pancetta over a medium flame for 1 minute. Remove from heat.
-Immediately add the whisked egg yolk and cream mixture to the pan. Toss and mix for 30 seconds. Serve immediately with grated parmiggiano reggiano.
Buon appetito!
August 18th, 2006
Today I had lunch at Town Hall with Victoria. I’d been there 3 or 4 times since they opened and have always been somewhat disappointed. The dishes were either uninteresting or just overly salted.
However, I do like the environment and the feel as you walk in. So I thought I would give it another try. We shared a tuna tartare with fried green tomatoes and a melon & proscuitto dish with goat cheese and truffle honey. The tartare was good with the right amount of spices. The taste of the fish was not compromised. The melon was also delicious but was it really necessary to add truffle honey? Maybe they thought they could raise the price a dollar or two if it read truffle honey. It did nothing to enhance the flavor of the beautiful melon.
Next Victoria had a lobster roll with cole slaw and heirloom tomatoes. She said it was very good, particularly the cole slaw. I opted for the veal scallopine with a salad of greens, toasted bread and tomatoes (essentially a panzanella bread salad which I adore). Well, the veal was good but came topped with unattractive little blobs of mozarella cheese and tomatoe puree with onion. The girl behind the bar saw that I was not happy and offered to take the dish back. I acquiesced as even the bread crumbs were not appealing. So I ordered the fish and chips instead. Guess what? They were the best fish and chips I ever had.
Suddenly it dawned one me. Town Hall is about southern cooking. They cannot handle Mediterranean cuisine…so why even try!
Mediterranean cooking is about showcasing one or two beautiful seasonal ingredients. Southern cooking is about combining a bunch of different ingredients together so that the sum of the parts makes a dish with powerful flavors.
Lesson learned. I will go back for the fish and chips when that type of food fits my mood. -James
August 15th, 2006
Pazzia is a small trattoria focusing on Florentine cuisine on 3rd Street near Harrison in the SOMA district of San Francisco. When we say trattoria we mean something very casual and even a bit rustic as opposed to an osteria or ristorante. In other words, this is not intended to be fine dining but rather good, simple food using clean ingredients.
In any event, I dropped in for lunch around 1:15pm and the place was packed…completely. Everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves amongst the chaos. Once I finally sat down I looked over the menu and decided to start with the tonno or tuna appetizer. However, I misunderstood the description as I thought it was a simple salad but it turned out to be a sandwich. I explained to the owner what I was looking for and he graciously modified the dish. What came out a few minutes later was a delightful mix of Italian tuna with basil, salt, pepper, olive oil and some very good heirloom tomatoes. A perfect way to start. For the next dish I opted for his house-made ravioli with meat ragu as I really wanted to sample the hand-made pasta. Surprisingly the dish was not too heavy and the pasta was excellent once the dish cooled down a bit. I will say that it was over-sauced but this is probably necessary to satisfy many the American clientele who may not be accustomed to the Italian tradition of dressing pasta much like a salad.
It is evident to me that the owner (who introduced himself) is very passionate. Pazzia has been open for 9 years and will soon undergo a remodel and an expansion into the space next door. This can only be a good thing.
August 10th, 2006
My friend and fishmonger, Karim, recently left Yum Yum Fish on 22nd and Irving after the business was sold to new owners. I am saddened by this as Karim was not only a consummate fish expert but also one of the most friendly and accommodating persons I know. He always steered me toward the freshest catch and the best cuts.
La Boqueria Market in Barcelona, SPAIN
I’ve been back to Yum Yum three times now and have experienced first-hand the lack of quality and care. So where does one go for good fish these days? I don’t have an answer, unfortunately. Unless you are friends with the owner of say, Monterey Fish (the commercial fishery on the Embarcadero) what do you do save hire your own fishing boat and crew? The two fish companies in the Ferry Building are generally pretty good but quality still varies. Bryan’s in Laurel Village does an ok job as well but there is no where to go and have access to abundant amounts of glisteningly fresh fish like many markets in Europe.
La Boqueria Market in Barcelona, SPAIN
Please send me any Bay Area fish recommendations or ideas!
August 10th, 2006
Lamb is a beautiful thing, especially when it comes fresh (not frozen) to the Saturday San Francisco Farmer’s Market (Ferry Plaza Building) from the people at Marin Sun Farms. The other day I picked up a lamb shoulder and prepared an absolutely succulent feast. Here is my very simple preparation.
Ingredients:
-1 lamb shoulder (3-4 pounds serves 6)
-4 cloves of garlic
-4 tablespoons of chopped rosemary
-a few sprigs of thyme for garnish
-1 cup of white wine
-extra virgen olive oil
-unsalted butter
-2 pounds yellow finn or fingerling potatoes, coarsely chopped with skin on
-salt
-pepper
Preparation
Pre-heat your oven to 450 degrees. Take your lamb out of the refrigerator and salt and pepper it liberally on all sides. Often this cut of lamb comes tied up in a net. Remove the netting. Create a rub for the meat by mincing the garlic and rosemary and spread it all over the meat with the extra virgen olive oil. Let the meat rest for 1 hour at room temperature.
Place the meat in an oven proof dish uncovered and roast for 40 minutes to 1 hour, until pink and tender on the inside. The inside temperature should read 140 degrees. Check on your lamb after the first 30 minutes and turn over when the top side seems fairly well browned. At this point you can let the meat “unroll” (see photos) so that it cooks faster. Once the meat is ready set it on a large cutting board and allow to rest for fifteen minutes before carving.
While the meat is roasting take a large sautee pan and add 2 tablespoons of olive oil and 1 tablespoon of butter. Once melted add your potatoes and sautee over medium heat, stirring and tossing frequently. Add some of the thyme leaves to the pan as well as throughout the cooking process. The potatoes should be nice and soft inside and slightly brown on the outside. Usually 30 minutes is sufficient time but use your best judgement.
The Sauce
While your lamb is resting, take the pan or dish you used for roasting and place over high heat. Using a wooden spoon scape up all the brown, crusty bits and stir around the pan. Deglaze with the white wine and reduce by 3/4. Add a few chopped thyme leaves. Once reduced sufficiently, stir in 2 tablespoons of cold, unsalted butter. Spoon over each plate of carved lamb with the potatoes. Garnish with more fresh thyme.
The Corn
If you have a fireplace you can place the corn in a roasting pan with holes (such as a chestnut roasting pan) or just hold the corn with tongs over the hot coals (not over the direct flames). Roast for 2 minutes per side. Dress with olive oil and black pepper. Serve immediately. If you do not have a firelace or grill, place the corn in salted boiling water for 2 minutes and then season with oil and pepper.
August 4th, 2006
