This is a classic dish from the small town Amatrice in the region of Lazio, near Rome. There is, however, much controversy around the origins of the dish and the way in which it should properly be prepared. Amatrice was originally part of Abruzzo and only became connected to Rome through Lazio in the early 1900s. The residents of Amatrice originally made this dish without tomatoes, using only spaghetti, Pecorino and guanciale (cured pork jowl). This dish today is made in Rome and Amatrice with the same ingredients but also includes San Marzano tomatoes.
The Romans argue that they created the dish and have many variations on how it is prepared. They typically use Buccatini pasta and also incorporate onions into the dish. The Amatrice use spaghetti and omit onions entirely. I prefer the classic way of Amatrice and have included the recipe below.
Ingredients (serves 6-8)
-1 pound best quality spaghetti
-1/2 pound guanciale or pancetta
-Salt & pepper
-Extra virgin olive oil
-Pecorino Romano
-1 tablespoon of Pepperoncino or red pepper flakes
-1 can whole San Marzano tomatoes
Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Meanwhile slice the guanciale into small chunks. Add 2 tablespoons of olive oil to a large saute pan over medium high heat until most of the fat has rendered and the pieces are slightly crispy (but not carmelized). Reove from heat and discard all fat except for 1/4 cup.
Take 1/2 can (16 ounces or 2 cups) of the San Marzano tomatoes and place into a bowl. Reserve the other half can for another use. Crush them by hand until all the tomtoes are roughly broken. Put the saute pan with guanciale back on the heat. When hot pour the tomatoes into the pan and stir. Bring to a boil and lower the heat to low. Simmer for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add salt and pepper along the way to taste, knowing that the guanciale is already salty. If the sauce becomes too dense add a tablespoon or two of pasta water to loosen it. Toward the end stir in the red pepper flakes.
Add 2 aggresive tablespoons of salt to your boiling pasta water and drop your spaghetti. Cook according to the package instructions but remove 45 seconds prior to being done. Bring your sauce pan to a boil and drop the pasta into the sauce. Toss for 1 minute over high heat. Add more pepper and grate a healthy amount of Pecorino Romano over the top. Serve immediately.
February 25th, 2009
CWJ CLASS - GNOCCHI NIGHT - HAND-MADE POTATO GNOCCHI WITH BUTTER & SAGE
Ingredients:
-3-4 large Russet potatoes
-2 tablespoons of thyme or rosemary butter
-2 to 3 eggs
-2 to 3 cups of all purpose unbleached flour
-1/4 cup of heavy cream
-1/2 tablespoon of unsalted butter, plus more for sauce
-6-10 whole sage leaves
POTATOES
Bring a large pot to a boil and place potatoes–with their skin on–into the water. Lower to a gentle simmer and allow to cook until easily pierced with a knife but not completely falling apart. Allow to cool. Remove the skins. Cut into chunks and put through a ricer into a large bowl.
Add the thyme butter, cream and eggs (whisk the eggs first in a separate bowl), salt aggressively and gently mix everything together. Do not over work the potatoes. Pour everything onto a marble or clean cutting board. Pour the flour around the potato mixture. Using a pastry scraper add about a cup of the surrounding flour onto the top of the potato mixture and chop the flour in with the scraper. Once the flour is well incorporated begin to fold the dough using the side of the scraper. Work the dough over for about 2-3 minutes, adding more flour if still too wet.
Set the dough side as one cohesive mass. Slice off a small piece and begin to roll it out using your fingers. Roll over the top very gently (do not press down on the dough). Once you have made a long and fairly thin roll (about 1/2 inch thick) cut it into pieces using the scraper. I like to use the scraper in a downward motion and then flick to the right to cut the pieces. As you work move the cut pieces onto a platter lined with parchment or wax paper that is already dusted with flour.
When your gnocchi are on the platter, proceed to “fork” each piece. Dust a fork with some flour and take each piece of gnocchi and gently roll it off the fork so that you can see fork indentations but the gnocchi are still open (they look like half shells). This will allow the sauce to adhere to them.
Bring a pot of water to a boil. Salt it aggressively. Add the gnocchi carefully into the water (it’s okay if some flour goes in with it). Cook for 2-4 minutes or until the gnocchi rise to the surface. Meanwhile bring 4 tablespoons of butter to a simmer with 6-8 sage leaves. Using a slotted spoon quickly transfer gnocchi to the sauté pan and gently toss with the butter. Add up to 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water to help bind the sauce. Serve onto warmed plates and grate with Parmigiano Reggiano. Serve immediately.
THYME OR ROSEMARY BUTTER
Melt the butter in a sauce pan over low heat with one small sprig or thyme or rosemary. When fully melted set aside.
February 23rd, 2009
