PASTA ALL’MATRICIANA

February 25th, 2009

This is a classic dish from the small town Amatrice in the region of Lazio, near Rome. There is, however, much controversy around the origins of the dish and the way in which it should properly be prepared. Amatrice was originally part of Abruzzo and only became connected to Rome through Lazio in the early 1900s. The residents of Amatrice originally made this dish without tomatoes, using only spaghetti, Pecorino and guanciale (cured pork jowl). This dish today is made in Rome and Amatrice with the same ingredients but also includes San Marzano tomatoes.

The Romans argue that they created the dish and have many variations on how it is prepared. They typically use Buccatini pasta and also incorporate onions into the dish. The Amatrice use spaghetti and omit onions entirely. I prefer the classic way of Amatrice and have included the recipe below.

Ingredients (serves 6-8)

-1 pound best quality spaghetti

-1/2 pound guanciale or pancetta

-Salt & pepper

-Extra virgin olive oil

-Pecorino Romano

-1 tablespoon of Pepperoncino or red pepper flakes

-1 can whole San Marzano tomatoes

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Meanwhile slice the guanciale into small chunks. Add 2 tablespoons of olive oil to a large saute pan over medium high heat until most of the fat has rendered and the pieces are slightly crispy (but not carmelized). Reove from heat and discard all fat except for 1/4 cup.

Take 1/2 can (16 ounces or 2 cups) of the San Marzano tomatoes and place into a bowl. Reserve the other half can for another use. Crush them by hand until all the tomtoes are roughly broken. Put the saute pan with guanciale back on the heat. When hot pour the tomatoes into the pan and stir. Bring to a boil and lower the heat to low. Simmer for 30-40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add salt and pepper along the way to taste, knowing that the guanciale is already salty. If the sauce becomes too dense add a tablespoon or two of pasta water to loosen it. Toward the end stir in the red pepper flakes.

Add 2 aggresive tablespoons of salt to your boiling pasta water and drop your spaghetti. Cook according to the package instructions but remove 45 seconds prior to being done. Bring your sauce pan to a boil and drop the pasta into the sauce. Toss for 1 minute over high heat. Add more pepper and grate a healthy amount of Pecorino Romano over the top. Serve immediately.

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